
L 






^^^^^rfllHI 



h*.?.»:£%t(^li9£&3 





I 



I 




V 



\< 



4fi 



liOliS 



in E> 



t^ess (> 



*A 



3- WITH HE 



'//, 



r # 



DIAGRAMS, £TC„ C0MPL£T£, 

TO BE USED EXPRESSLY 
|£op fl\« 



^6EM 



TAILOR' 

/ 4 



A 




W 







^C" ^A 




OF CUTTING. 



BY |^s- 



firs. E. E. PALMER, 



CHICAGO, ILL. 



7T 




-y 



M 









♦4 ;* » i 



Entered according to act of Congress in the year 1892, by Mrs, E. E. Palmer, in the Office of 

the Librarian of Congress at Washington, D. G. 



&^~Z> 






a 



-U, 



S©S»&S©S»9»»©SOS'*3'©»©©»©©®S»®&©S&S&©»®@®®a®#C 





Gvty<m&. (@Juui&<im. c$z/zuei. 



&&&®&&&&&tm&0^&&&0@.&&i£>&&&&!&&l&B'&&&=&&&&&&S>&&S4&&&&&&»&&& 



Index. 



PAGE 



Dress Cutting, --------- 8 

Directions for Taking Measures, ------ g 

The Practical Drafting of a Plain Tight-fitting Basque, - - - 10-15 

The Plain Dress Sleeve, ------- j6 

Leg-o'-mutton Sleeve, - - - - - - - - 17 

Cutting and Basting the Sleeve, ------ T g 

Basque with Bias or French Dart, - - - - - - 18-19 

How to Cut and Make the Dress, .___._ 19-20 

Basque with Two Under Arms, ------ 20-22 

Basque with One Dart and Low Neck, ----- 22 

Back with Forms Running to Shoulder, ----- 22 

Basque without Darts, -------- 23 

The French Back, -------- 24 

Seamless Bodice and Princess, ------- 24 

Blouse, Spencer and Sacque Waists, -__.__ 25 

Sleeve with Dart to Elbow, ------- 26 

Plain Coat Sleeve, -------- 2 6 

Medici and Coat Collar, Flaring and Tight-fitting Bands, - - - 27 

Plain Sham Skirt, -------- 27-28 

Foundation Skirt for Train, ------- 28 

A Narrow Bell Skirt, ------- 29 

The Demi Trained French Skirt, ------ 29 

Coat Skirt Cut in Widths for Silk, ------ 29 

The Princess or Morning Gown, ------ 30 

Princess with French Dart, ------- 31 

Reefer and Blazer Jacket, - - 3 f -32 

A Plain Ulster, - 32 

The Dolman Front, Back and Side-body, ... ^^ 

The Dolman Sleeve in Three Different Styles, - 33~34 

Ulster with Cape, ------ - - 35 

The Riding Habit Waist, ------- 35-36 

Skirt for Riding Habit, -------- 36-37 

Cutting and Making Riding Trousers, ----- 37-38 

Children's Garments, Cutting and Making, ----- 39 

Suit for Boy Complete, ------- 40-43 



•<*- 



— /t\ 






?l System for (jutting J^adies' garments, 



INVENTED BY 



E. ELLSWORTH PALMER. 



MME. ELLSWORTH PALMER'S System 
for Cutting Ladies' Garments was invented 
about ten years ago. 

It was protected by Patents and Copyrights, and 
from the very first it met with public favor, and has 
since attained a grand success. 

The first invention was a folding chart called the 
Ladies' Gem, Pat. in 1882, which met with such pop- 
ular approval that thousands of them are still manu- 
factured to meet the demands of dress-makers who 
are loth to give them up. 

The next was an improvement on the first in 1884, 
and called the Gem of Actual Measure. This was 
still a folding chart, but very easy to learn and rapid 
in its work, and the fit obtained from it seemed al- 
most magical. Thousands of testimonials poured in 
from every quarter, claiming that with it better re- 
sults were obtained than with many of the high- 
priced systems then in use. Five minutes' time to 
draft a garment, and no refitting, was almost a mira- 
cle. Still the system was a chart; it gave a set of 
graduated patterns so arranged as to change for quite 
imperfect forms, but not capable of change for the 
variable and intricate fashions that caprice required. 
One month : three, five or more seams running to the 
shoulder shall comprise the back, and one, two, or 
three darts with no hip seam shall constitute the 
front. The next month gives an entirely different ar- 
rangement. A chart could never fulfill this require- 
ment, and in 1886 the third system was invented. 
This was a square on heavy card-board, and bound 



around the edges with brass ; it was called the Gem 
Tailor System. This was actual measure, combined 
somewhat with the law of proportions, and so arranged 
that every division and calculation was made on 
the various scales for the learner. It met all the re- 
quirements of fashion, and has been a grand success. 

The manner adopted in this work for teaching the 
Theory and Practice of Dress Cutting is entirely new. 

The drafting is done at once on the lining for gar- 
ments, which saves time of transferring from paper, 
also the errors that are liable to occur by the slipping 
of paper, etc., during the operation. 

For a well-proportioned form only 10 measures are 
needed for the entire gown — basque, sleeve and skirt. 
Extra measures are taken when out of proportion in 
any way. 

The measures being taken over the dress and as to 
size neither tight, nor again loose, make it very easy 
to get a correct set of measures, a set so reliable that 
not once out of one hundred times will there be the 
least change to make in a garment at the first trial fit. 

The inventor claims to have invented the ONLY 
Tailor's System for Ladies' Garments. 

When strips of card-board are inserted in a square 
with size of bust, neck, etc., what is it but a chart? 
Does it change them into tailor systems by laying 
them on the square ? 

While I have nothing to say against charts, (in the 
hands of mothers and daughters not professionals, 
they have been a boon, a saving of time and money), 
still I would say, "Be not deceived." Anything that has 



* 



& 



& 



a slip or slips of card-board to use with, or in connec- 
tion with it, is a chart, no matter whether it be on 
wood, cloth, tin, or paper, and every moving, sliding 
machine is a chart, and the poorest kind of a chart, 
as they are capable of no changes whatever. There 
is one piece of advice that I would give all contem- 
plating the idea of taking up or learning any new sys- 
tem, and that is to avoid anything that gives straight 
lines and angles. Every delineation of the human 
form is a curve, and every outline on a pattern must 
be a curved line or there is no ease or beauty in the fit. 

Very many systems that fit the form nicely, are not 
kept up in style, and more have no style to begin 
with. An amateur dress-maker should learn the first 
thing, that a form can be fitted to look long waisted 
or short, square or sloping shoulders, and either 
broad or narrow across the chest, etc., etc. 

In bringing this work before the public, we have 



studied and worked out a system of Actual Meas- 
ure — a Tailor System of Cutting — with every cal- 
culation made for the learner. Actual Measure by a 
scale of inches is used wherever and whenever it can 
be in cutting a dress, with every division and calcula- 
tion made for the learner, and every device studied 
to simplify the drafting, and at the same time produce 
the most exact and stylish fit ever made. 

To place before dress-makers a system that is 
practical, reliable, stylish, exact, and at the same time 
easy to learn and quick to handle, is our object in 
this work. 

Having been for years active in this line of busi- 
ness, the practical rules and directions given in this 
work are all deducted from actual practice, and are 
identical with those sanctioned by the best modern 
authorities. They have been proven correct in prac- 
tice, and to-day are adopted by the best cutters. 




<>~ 



4- 



f 



<> 



¥ * PRICE LIST. ¥ ¥ 



->/\3- 






-5V~ 



One System Complete - - - 

One System Complete with Lessons 

One Measure Book 

One Double Adjustable Trace Wheel 

One Single Trace Wheel 

One Tailor's Tape Line 

One Button Mole Scissors 



$ 5.00 

10.00 

.50 

•50 

- .25 
.10 
•75 



Parts of System when Purchased Separately. 



Square 

Curve 

Instruction Book 



$2.00 

1.50 

- 1.50 



YSTEM Complete consists of a Square on heavy card-board, the edges of which are 
bound with a narrow brass binding; a Curve on same board, with brass binding, and an 
Illustrated Instruction Book. 

Remittance should be made by Draft, Express, Post Office, Money Order, Postal Note 
or Registered Letter. 

Goods will be sent CO. D. by express when desired. 

In ordering be sure to give the name of state, name of town or post office, and your 
own name in full and plainly written. 



General Supply Office, BARABOO, WIS. 



!* GULlMMmi Palmer. 



<> 



<> 



<> 



<^DRESS CUTTING.^ 





One of the greatest troubles, and nearly the only 
trouble we have to combat with in teaching, is inac- 
curacy or carelessness. 

In the first place the measures must be correctly 
taken. To do this successfully, notice that the lady is 
properly dressed, corsets arranged to suit the figure, 
any extra fullness if worn, adjusted becomingly, etc. 

Belting, such as is used on the inside of dress 
waists, should be pinned closely around the actual 



waist. This serves as a guide in getting lengths, al- 
though it will seldom remain as low down on the 
waist as the measures can and ought to be taken; in 
which case each one must be taken the same distance 
below. 

A correct measure of any lady, no matter what 
her form may be, will enable you to fit her perfectly 
without any refitting. 



*t7" '■ 



Hp- 



<> 



H^ 



Directions for «raltf n gl tbe Measures. 



Stand back of the figure in measuring for size of 
bust, waist, armhole, and width of back; also for 
length of back, under arm, shoulder, and hip to neck. 
Stand in front of the figure in taking width of chest, 
length of front, sleeve, skirt, and size of neck, elbow, 
and wrist. 

These measures are numbered i, 2, 3, etc., to cor- 
respond with the numbers on the cut. 

/. Size of Bust. 

Place the tape-line around the figure, over the ful- 
lest part of the bust, close under the arms, and from 
there straight to the middle of back. 

We will say here that all sizes on the person are 
taken alike, neither tight nor loose. 

2. Size of Waist. 

Pass the tape around the actual waist of the lady. 

3. Length of Waist. 

Put the end of the tape just over the prominent 
neck bone in the back, or from where the collar 
ought to sit on the neck of the dress, and take the 
measure down to the lower edge of the belt. For 
fitting many forms, especially large ladies, it will be 
necessary to measure below the belt, the exact length 
the back may be fitted. Use this measure instead of 
the one and one-fourth inches as on medium drafts. 

Set this measure below the first to be used with it. 

4. Length Under Arm. 

Place the tape directly under the arm, as high as 
the sleeve seam ought to be, and carry it straight 
down to the roll of the hip. In most cases this meas- 
ure will reach below the belt, in which case every 
measure to the belt, must be taken the same distance 
below. 

5. Hip to Neck. 

Place the tape exactly where Under Arm Meas- 
ure ends, and carry it up in front of the arm and over 
the shoulder to middle of back at neck. 

6. Length of Shoulder. 

Place the tape at the collar line back of the highest 
part of the shoulder. This measure is governed 
somewhat by style. 

7. Size of Neck. 

Pass the tape around the collar line. 

8. Size of Armhole. 

Have the lady stand with her hand upon her hip. 
Pass the tape under the arm, starting from the top of 
the shoulder. 

p. Size of Elbow. 

Put the tape in the bend of the elbow and pass it 
straight around the arm over the joint. 



10. Size of Wrist. 

Put the tape around the wrist, or broadest part of 
the hand. 

11. Length of Sleeve. 

Place the end of the tape at the armpit and meas- 
ure to the wrist joint. 

12. Length of Skirt. 

Place the tape at lower edge of belt and measure 
down to toe of the shoe. The lady must stand erect 
while this measure is taken. 



^Jxtra 7Vl easur es. 



While the above measures are all that are necessary 
for a well-formed person, extra measures must be 
taken to fit a very large, a scrawny figure, or one 
in any way out of proportion. 

1. Width of Back. 

Have the lady put her arms close to the figure. 
Measure across the back from the top of one side 
seam to the other. 

2. Width of Chest. 

Have the lady stand erect, arms close to the sides, 
and measure across the chest, from arm to arm, two 
inches below the shoulder point. 
J. Length of Front. 

Place the tape at middle of back at neck and meas- 
ure over the shoulder and down the front to full 
stomach. Place the dart line at this point. 

This form can be fitted long in the back. 

4. Size Above the Elbow. 

Measure around the largest part of the arm be- 
tween elbow and wrist. 

5. Size of Hips. 

Take this measure six inches below the waist line 
all around the figure. To apply this, measure across 
each piece six inches below waist line and if you find 
the measure on your draft more than the actual size 
of hips, take the difference off inside of line " F," on 
the side body. If too small add the difference usu- 
ally on the hips — lines "G" and "P." 

In applying this measure, however, one can best 
be guided by the eye, as you can see whether it is 
large hips, a full stomach or fullness in the back of a 
dress that gives extra size to this measure; in which 
case enlarge wherever needed. 



■it- 



<> 



<> 



<> 



<lhe Practical Drafting of a plain, ^igbt^fitting Basque^ 



DRAFTED BY THE MEASUREMENTS AS TAKEN ON THE PERSONS. 




{The Dirgram for Front of Basque.) 

Let us explain the system by which dress waists 
are produced in conformity with the person meas- 
ured. We will make this clear by the use of dia- 
grams, illustrating every stage of drafting and ex- 
plaining in such a manner that none can go amiss. 

In order that we may intelligently proceed to work 
we shall select the following set of measurements 
with which to draft this elementary pattern, — these 



measurements being all that are necessary for a per- 
fect form. They are : 

Size of bust 36 inches. 

Size of waist 24 inches. 

Length of waist 15 inches. 

Length under arm 8 inches. 

Length from hip to neck 18*^ inches. 

Length of shoulder 4)4 inches. 



^bs Front °f B asc I ue . 



Although, for convenience, we use paper in teach- 
ing this system, in practice we draft entirely on the 
dress lining. Any kind of plain paper 18x24 inches 
will answer. 

Lay this on the drafting table with the long side 
toward you. 

And here let me explain the System. You will 
notice that it is a square on card-board, and for con- 
venience in teaching we will call the sides the long 
arm of the square, and the ends the short arm. The 
ends having the word Front and Back in large let- 
ters, we will call the top of the square and the oppo- 
site ends the lower, or bottom of the square. 

Place the square on the paper with the short arm 
to the left, one and one-half (1^) inches from the 
front edge and one and one-half (i}4) inches from 
the top or left edge of the paper. 

(1st.) Draw a line the entire length of the long 
arm of the square and mark it " A." Draw another 
line the length of the short arm and mark it" B." 

(2nd.) From the corner of the square on line " B " 
make a point at 36 in the scale for neck. When the 
No. is not on the scale, mark at the one next in size. 

(3rd.) Measure downward from the corner of the 
square on line "A" one inch, and make a point. 
Make another at 36 in the scale for front. 



<> 



10 



<> 



t 



(4th.) Move the corner of the square down to 
point (3,) and measure down on line " A" eight 
inches for length under arm. Make another point 
one and one-fourth {1%) inches below this, as every 
good form can be fitted that much below the waist 
line, both in the front and in the back of waist. 
These points are numbered as we make them, — (1), 

(2), (3)- (4), (5), etc. 

(5th.) Without changing the position of the 
square make a point at 8 in both dart scales, as the 
darts are governed by length under arm. These are 
points (6) and (7). You will observe that all points 
are numbered in the order in which they occur, and 
while learning, be particular to number each point as 
they are made. 

(6th.) Place the waist scale which you find on long 
arm of square in line with point (4), placing the short 
arm directly straight with line " A;" draw a line 
along the long arm and mark it " C." 

(7th.) With the square in this position make a 
point on line " C," at 24 in the waist scale — (this 
is the size of the waist). Make another point at 36. 
in the bust scale, — (this is the size of the bust) 
Measure the space between waist and bust size, which 
we find to be three and one-fourths inches; this, if 
taken up in two darts, gives a width of one and one- 
half and one and three-fourths inches darts. 

(8th.) Commencing the darts on line " C " make 
a point one and three-fourths inches from (4) ; from 
this point make another at one and one-half inches 
which is width of first dart ; then again at three- 
fourths of an inch for space between darts ; and again 
at one and three-fourths inches for second dart. 
These points are (10) and (11), and (12) and (13) on 
the diagram. 

(9th.) Now make a dot in the middle between (10) 



and (11), also between (12) and (13). 

(10th.) Draw a line from (9) to (5), and mark it 
" D." Also draw a line across (6) and (7), and mark 
it " E." 

(nth.) Place the waist scale in line with point 
(3), with the short arm on line "A," and out on the 
long arm make points at 36 in the bust and breast 
scales. 

(12th.) Draw a line from point (14) to (3) and mark- 
it " F." 

(13th.) Shove the square back on line " F," until 
the short arm is square with point (15), and draw a 
line up from (15) the length of the short arm. Mark 
this line " G." 

(14th.) Move the square up to point (2). Measure 
out on the long arm nine inches and make point (16). 
Draw a line from (16) to point (2), and mark it " H." 

(15th.) Bring the square toward the front until 
the short arm is square with point (1) and draw a line 
from the top edge of the paper to line " H." Mark 
this line " I." 

(16th.) Take the width of back neck (which in 
this case is one and one-half inches) from the hip to 
neck measure and it leaves 17 inches for the front of 
waist. Place 17 in the inch scale, at point (8) and 
where the corner of the square strikes line " I " make 
a point, which is (17) on this diagram. 

(17th.) Place the short arm of the square on a line 
with point (17) and the long arm straight with line 
"A" and make a point on line "A" at 36 in the scale 
for neck. 

(1 8th.) Square up with line " F," and the dot be- 
tween (10) and (n). Draw a line from line " E" to 
dot, and mark it " J." 

(19th.) Draw another in the same manner to dot 
between (12) and (13), and mark it " K." 

This finishes the diagram for front of basque. 






•O- 



11 



<> 



<> 



<> 



^be Completed Draft for ^ront of 
Basque. 




You can now lay aside the square and take up the 
rule, for completing the draft. 

The points on this rule, which are used for con- 
venience in drafting, are "A," " B," " C," " D," " E," 
" F," " G," and " H." 

You will observe that lines " L," " M," " N" and 
"O" are made with the curved side of the rule placed 
in or toward the center of the pattern, while " P," 
" Q," " R," " S" and " T" are curved out or from the 
center of the draft. 



You will also see that a line is curved or out in 
from the center of the draft according to which side 
of the rule is used. 

To Drcnv the Neck. 

(ist.) Place the round end of the rule at (18), and 
draw around the curve so as to cross line " B," inside 
of point (i), draw to {ij) and mark the line " L." 

(2nd.) Place " F" at (17) and draw along the scale 
of inches toward (16) to four and one-half inches on 
the inch scale, which is the length of the shoulder 
in this set of measures. Mark this line " M." 

(3rd.) Make a point in the middle of line '"M," and 
place the obverse side of scale " F" at this point; 
from here draw a curved line one-fourth of an inch 
below the point of shoulder. 

(4th.) To draw the armhole, place the round end 
of the rule at (14), at the same time let the edge of 
the rule cross line " G," and strike the end of line 
"M." Draw around the curve from (14) to the end of 
line " M" and mark the line " N." (The curve is to be 
fitted in this space for armhole, always crossing line 
"G," and touching point of shoulder and point (14), 
letting the round end strike (14) wherever it may.) 

To Draw Length under Ann. 

(5th.) Place " H" at (9), and commencing one- 
fourth of an inch above (9) draw along the inch scale 
to (14). Mark this line " O." 

To Draw Curve Over Hip. 

(6th.) Reverse the rule with round end up and 
place " F" at end of line "O," with "A" at the same 
time resting on line " C." Draw a line along the scale 
and mark it " P." 

To Draw the Darts. 

(7th.) Place " E" at the upper end of line " J." 
Draw through point (10) to line " D." Mark this 
line " O." Draw " R" in the same manner from up- 
per end of line " K," through point (12) to line " D." 
Turn the rule over and draw lines " S" and " T," in 
the same manner as " O" and " R." 

(8th.) The darts are finished on a slant of eight 
inches below line " D." To do this use the straight 
edge of the rule. Place (6) in scale "F" at the middle 
dot between ( 1 o) and (11); press one finger firmly on the 
lower end of the rule and swing the upper portion, 
first to (10) and draw a line along the edge down from 
the end of line " Q;" then swing to (11) and finish line 
" S" below the waist line. 

In the same manner draw the lower part of lines 
" R" and " T." 

(9th.) Place " F" at end of line " O," and draw to 
line below (13). Mark the line " U." 

(10th.) Make a point on line " L," one-half an 
inch from (18.) Place " H" at (6), and draw along 
the scale to this point. 



■O- 



13 



<> 



t 



The bottom of the basque may be finished 
style with the different curves on the rule. 



in 



any 



Qiagram for Side«-bod\/" or ||nder« 
arm for JJasque. 

( Fig. 3.) 




(ist.) First measure down from the top or left 
hand of your paper along the front edge, nine inches 
or one inch longer than length under arm. 

(2nd.) Place the corner of the square at this point 
with the short arm along the front edge of the paper 
and draw a line along the edge of the long arm. 
Mark this line " A." 

(3rd.) Mark off on line "A," first one and one-half 
inches. This is point (1). 

(4th.) Notice on the lower end of square for back, 
a scale for side body. Place the end of this scale at 
(i),and make a point at 24 in the scale. This is 
point (2). 

(5th.) Now shove the square down, bringing 8*4 
on the inch scale to point (1), and make a point down 
from the upper corner of the square one-half of an 



<> 



inch. Mark this point (3). Also make a point out 
on the short arm at 36, in the neck scale. This is 
point (4). Mark out on line " A," from point (2), one 
and one-half inches, draw a straight line down from 
this point and mark it " B." 



% Finished Draft for Side-body. 



(ist.) Place " H"at point (1) and draw along the 
edge of the scale from (3) to one-fourth inch above 
point (1). Mark this line " C." 

(2nd.) Draw a line from (3) to (4) with any curve 
and mark it " D." 

(3rd.) Place "H" at point (2) and draw along the 
edge of the scale from point (4) through point (2) to 
one-fourth inch below line " A." Mark this line " E." 
You will observe that these lines have all curved 
toward the center of the draft while the next lines, 
" F" and " G," will curve from the center. 

(4th.) Place " F" at end of line " E" and let (3) on 
the inch scale intersect line " B." Draw along the 
edge of scale from the end of line " E," and through 
line " B" six inches. Mark this line " F." 

(5th.) Place " F" at point (1) and let the scale 
strike the edge of the paper six inches from line 
" A," draw along the scale of inches and mark the 
line " G7 

(6th.) Draw a curved line from the end of line 
" C" to the end of line " E," and mark it "H." To 
draw this line place " F" either above point (1) or at 
the end of line "E." 

(7th.) Finish the bottom any style with the rule. 




A- 



13 



<> 



o 



<> 



Qiagram for H$ael^ of J^asque. 



17- 




(ist.) Place the square on the paper one inch 
from the front edge and one inch from the top. Draw 
lines the same as for front of waist and mark them 
" A " and" B." 

(2nd.) Measure down on line " A" five inches,and 



make a point. Make another below this at 36, in the 
scale for back, and another one-half inch below this. 
These are points (i), (2) and (3), as you see on line 
"A." 

(3rd.) Shove the upper corner of the square down 
to point (3), and from this point measure down on line 
" A," eight and one-half inches, which is one-half 
inch longer than length under arm, and make a point. 

(4th.) Make another point one and one-fourth 
inches below this for fitting below waist line. These 
are points (4) and (5.) 

(5th.) Place the lower corner of the square at 
point (4), placing the short arm directly straight with 
line " A," draw a line along the long arm and mark it 
"C." 

The waist and bust scales are now in line with (4.) 
(6th.) Mark on line " C," without moving the 
square, at 24 in the scale for waist. This is waist 
size. Also make a point one and one-half inches be- 
yond waist size. Commencing back on line "C" make 
a point one-half inch from (4), which is point (7); make 
another one-fourth from (7) and mark it (8); another 
three-fourths of an inch from (8) and mark it (9). 
Notice at end of waist scale a little division where 
side-body commences. Bring this division to point 
(9), and make a point at 24 (waist size), in the lower 
scale. This is point (10). 

(7th.) Now draw a line from 5 to 6, and mark it 
" D." 

(8th.) Shove the scales up in line with point 3, 
and out on the long arm make a point at 36 in the 
scale for bust, and another at 36 in the breast scale. 
Draw a line from 1 1 to 3, and mark it " E." 

(9th.) Shove the square along this line to point 12, 
draw a line up from 12 the length of the short arm 
and mark it " F." 

(10th.) Mark up from 12, on line "F," one inch, 
and make point 13. Bring the little division of side- 
body to this point, and on the upper scale for side- 
body, make a point at 36, bust size. (Where the 
right number is not on the scale, mark at the number 
nearest to the size you wish.) 

(nth.) Bring the square back to point I, and 
measure out on the long arm nine inches. This is 
point 15. Draw a line from 15 to point 1, and mark 
it "G." 

(12th.) Measure up from point 4, on line "A," 
fifteen inches for length of back. Place back neck 
scale at this point, and make a point at 36 in this 
scale for width of neck. 

(13th. Make another point down on line "A," 
one-half inch. This is point 17. Draw a line from 
this point through 7 to line " D," and mark it " H." 

(14th.) From the point marked out from 6, on line 
" C," draw a straight line down. Mark it " I." 

This finishes diagram for back of waist. See Fig. 5. 




^^- 



14= 



<> 



-€*-• 



•-O- 



Gompleted Draft for H^acI^ of Basque. 




The outlines of this pattern, like the front, are fin" 
s hed entirely with the rule. 



(ist.) Place the round end of the rule at (17) and 
draw around the curve to point (16). This is line 
" J," or neck. 

(2nd.) To draw the shoulder place" F" at (16) and 
draw along the edge of scale toward (15) four and 
three-fourths inches. Mark this line " K." 

(3rd.) To draw the armhole place " D ! ' on the curve 
at the intersection of lines " E" and "F," (round end 
down), and draw around the curve to end of line "K." 
Mark this line " L." 

(4th.) Turn the curve over and place (14) on inside 
of curve at line below (9) and draw from line "D" 
through (9) and along the edge of the curve toward 
(13) to line " L." Mark this line " M." 

(5th.) Reverse the rule and place " A " at (14) with 
the round point up and draw a line from (14) along 
the edge of curve through point (10) to line " D." 
Mark this line " N." 

(6th.) Draw from (14) to (11) with any curve and 
mark it " O." 

(7th.) Place "G" at ( 1 1) and draw along the inch 
scale to (6). Mark this line " P." 

(8th.) Turn the rule over and place " F " at end o 1 
line "P" to form an outward curve. Bring the scale to 
intersect line " I " six inches down from waist line. 
Draw along the scale and mark the line " O." 

(9th.) A small curve is taken out of the middle of 
the back from line " E" to " D," through point (8). 
Place " H" at (8) and draw from line " D " along the 
scale to line " E " near point (3). Mark this line "R." 

(10th.) Make a dot between (9) and (10) and place 
6 in scale " F" at the dot. Hold the lower end of the 
rule firmly and swing to (9) and (10), making lines 
the same as at front darts. 

(nth.) Place "H" at the end of line "R" and draw 
along the scale to the lower end of line " A." 

Finish the bottom any style with the curve. 

Lay the round part of the curve between " P" and 
" Q " and take out the angle at (6). 

As the basque is to be seamed on these lines, an 
allowance must be made for every seam. 




■ih- 



15 



-O- 



<> 



J)iagram for a plain Qress gleeue. 




Fig. 6. 

We now have the basque completed with the ex- 
ception of a sleeve. 

For this draft we will take the following set of 
measures which are all that is necessary for a per- 
fectly formed arm and plain sleeve. 

Size of bust 36 inches. 

Size at elbow 11 inches. 

Size at wrist 7 inches. 

Length of sleeve 17 inches. 



-f 



(ist.) Place the square on the paper one inch from 
the edge, both at front and top, the same as for back 
of basque. Draw a line the length of the long arm 
and mark it " A." Draw another the length of the 
short arm and mark it "B." 

(2nd.) Lay aside the square and place the -curve 
in the angle of lines " A" and " B," square end on 
line " B." While in this position make a point on line 
" A," at 36, in scale 1. Make another at 36 in scale 2. 

(3rd.) Change position of curve, placing the scales 
in line with point I, square end of curve on line "A," 
and make points at 36 in scales 3 and 4. These points 
are numbered as we make them, 1, 2, 3 and 4. 

(4th.) Draw a line from 4 to 1, and mark it "C." 

(5th.) In the same position, shove the curve back 
on line „A" to line " B," and make a point one-half 
inch above 36 in scale 3. This is point 5. Now make 
a point at the edge of the paper, exactly opposite, 
and one inch from 5. 

(6th.) Place the square end of the curve at point 2, 
with the scale on line "A," and measure off on line 
" A" seven and one-half inches for half length of 
sleeve. This gives us point 6. 

(7th.) Shove the curve to point 6, and measure 
again to full length of sleeve on line " A." See 
point 7. 

(8th.) 
point 8. 

(9th.) 

(10th.) 



Measure up from 6 two inches, and make 



Draw a straight line from 8 to 7. 
Place the edge of scales 5 and 6, (on op- 
posite side of curve), at point 8, with the square end 
along the line from 8 to 7, and make points at 1 1 
in scales 5 and 6. These are points 9 and 10. 

(nth.) Shove the curve to point 7 on the same 
slant as at 8,and make points at 7 in scales 5 and 6_ 
These are points 11 and 12. 

(12th.) Draw a line from 12 to 7, and mark it"D." 

This finishes the diagram for sleeve. 



3* — ■*— -■*• 



<)- 



16 



<> 



f 



Gompleted Draft for ^ig. 6. 

(Fig. 6.) 



(ist.) Place " D" at point above (5) with the edge 
of scale " F " on point (4), and draw a line around the 
curve from point above (5) to (4), and mark it " E." 

(2nd.) Reverse the rule and place "D" again at 
point above (5) and draw a line around the curve to 
point (2). Mark this line " F." 

(3rd.) Place "D" at point (2) with the outside of 
the rule at point (3) and draw around the curve from 
(2) to (3). Mark this line " G." 

(4th.) Draw a line from point"(8) to (2) by plac- 
ing " G " at (8) and drawing along the outside of 
the rule to (2). This line is " H." 

(5th.) Draw a line from (9) to the upper end of 
line " G;" also from (10) to point (4) with the rule in 
the same position as at line "H." 

(6th.) Reverse the rule and place " H " at point 
(8), and the outer edge on point (7), and draw from 
(8) to (7). This is line " K." Draw line "L" and 
"M" in the same manner from (9) to (11) and from 
(10) to (12). 

This finishes the sleeve; also the plain basque. 



-f 



This sleeve is drawn the same as the plain sleeve 
with these exceptions: 

(ist.) Add one and one-half inches to width of 
upper part of sleeve at point (4), and one inch at point 
(10) and (12), and take the same from the under part 
at point (9) and point (11); you can take the same 
from under part at top but we prefer this way. 

(2nd.) Take three-fourths of an inch from each end 
of line " G" as you see in Fig. 7. • 

(3rd.) Draw line "E" from point marked above 
(5) to point marked out from point (4). 

(4th.) To draw line " F " place " D " at point 
above (5) and draw along the curve to line " C " 
toward the point marked in from (2) on line " G." 
Reverse the curve and place " F" at point above (2), 
and draw along the edge of scale to end of line " F." 
at line " C." 

(5th.) Line "H" is drawn to point (2) for upper 
part and to point marked in on line " G " for under 
part of sleeve. 

(6th.) Make a point in on line " D" one-half inch 
from (7); also make another out the same distance, 
toward front edge of paper and draw lines " K " to 
these points instead of (7). 

(7th.) For a very large or very small arm it will 
be necessary to use the measure taken over the mus- 
cle of the arm above and below elbow. Measure 
across your draft, six inches down from the top, If 
the sleeve proves to be too small make a point out 



{SLEEVE GATHERED AT ELBOW) 




(Fig. 7.) 
Although Fig. 6, like Fig. 1, is the standard or 
elementary pattern of a sleeve and must be well 
learned before undertaking any subsequent shape, 
still this sleeve is the one which will be mostly used 
in practical drafting and cutting on the cloth. 



from line "J" and line " I," and place the rule on to 
form an outward curve to these points, 

If the sleeve is too large make points in from lines 
" J " and " I " and place the rule to form an inward 
curve, — below elbow the same if necessary. See rules 
for basting. 



<> 



1 7 



4 



■e 



<> 



The dotted lines give the full mutton-leg sleeve to 
be used with or without the lining. 

(8th.) To draw this make a x ou t three inches 
from the end of line "C ." From this make points 
three inches from line " F" and about one inch apart 
to the top of the sleeve, or where lines " F " and "E" 
meet. At this point place " D " of the rule and dot 
around the edge of the curve one inch apart to point 

(2). 

(9th.) Place " F" on line "J " seven inches from 
line " C," or at elbow, and make points along the 
scale to the x marked out from line " C." 



Gutting the §leeve. 



^o §et the §lee\?e in the 7^rm*bole. 



The draft for this sleeve is made upon the lining, 
and may be drafted either across or lengthwise. 

Draft the basque first, and then draft the sleeve 
from what is left of the lining. 

Before cutting, pin the lining together and trace 
through the lines for the upper part of the sleeve, 
and cut, allowing one-half inch for seams on both 
sides, and one-fourth inch at the ends. After cutting 
the upper parts, lay the part marked, on the lining 
again and trace the lines for the under part. Allow 
for seams as before, and cut. Use the lining for a 
pattern, and now cut the outside material. 



^o Ijjaste gleeue Fig. 5. 



Lay the lining on the material and baste all around 
on the outside trace lines. 

To join the parts, first baste the inside seam and 
then crease and pin the sleeve along the dotted lines 
near the seams. Now bring the upper part over on 
the under part, being careful not to twist the sleeve, 
which can easily be avoided while the sleeve is pinned 
straight along the dotted line. 

Make a notch at elbow point and gather each side 
enough to make the sleeve fit evenly. Trim at the 
ends if necessary. Great care must be taken not to 
twist the sleeve, as this is always in the basting alone. 



^-«- 



Make a notch at point (2), and pin this to middle 
of shoulder, found by doubling from under the arm. 
This will not always fit, in which case pin the sleeve 
into the arm-hole, while the basque is being tried on 
the figure. 



J^asque w>ltb I^ias or French H)art. 




U- ' 



(Fig. 8.) 
The shape you have already learned is a standard 
shape and is the fundament after which all other 
shapes are drafted, with certain variations, although 
according to the present fashion, there will be little 
practical use of this shape, it ought to be thoroughly 
learned by every pupil as only a thorough knowlegde 



18 



* 



<> 



of the same will enable her to cut any subsequent 
shape. For ladies of good proportion it is not used 
novv-a-days but must be drafted for figures with little 
curve in the waist or where the skirt is not cut off 
below the waist line. 

This diagram will show a draft with several varia- 
tions which we will point out and make clear to you 
in the order in which they occur. 

1. At waist line, draw line "C" three-fourths 
of an inch toward the front from point (4) and com- 
mence here to make points for base of darts. Mark 
off on line " C " two inches for point (10) then one and 
one-half inches as before. 

2. After drawing lines "J" and "K" make a 
point on line "C" one-half inch in front of (10) and 
another one inch out from point (13). This in the 
dart calculation will give us three and one-fourth and 
three-fourts or four inches for darts, and as we have 
used four and one-half inches, we must add one-half 
inch to waist line beyond point (9) or we can add it 
out from point (2) on waist line for side-body to make 
waist size correct. In this case we will add it to side- 
body. 

3. At shoulder, changes can be made in this 
way, to bring the shoulder seam nearer on top of 
shoulder : Make point (2) one inch or more lower on 
line "A" for front of waist and make point (1) the 
same distance up on line "A" for the back. The 
same changes can be make at neck. Point (17) can 
be made lhwer on line " I " and point (16) on the 
back as much higher to correspond. 

4. Make a point one-half inch above point (14) 
this point is afways made one-half of the width of the 
space added out from (13) on line " C." 

Should the point out from (13) be one and one-half 
inches, then this point would be three-fourths of an 
inch above (14), etc. 

5. Line " N " is now drawn to this point above 

(14). 

6. Measure down from point above (14) toward 
(9) eight inches or length under arm and make a 
point. 

7. Draw line "O" from line "N" to one-fourth 
inch above the point marked up from (9). 

8. Draw line " P" as before. 

9. Draw a straight line from (18) to point in 
front of (4); draw this to bottom of basque. 

10. The slanting line over top of darts is drawn 
straight with points (6) and (14) and the darts are 
made higher by placing the rule along the front 
edge of each dart. With " F " on the line above* 
draw first the front part of both darts by placing the 
rule so as to slant them a little toward the back of 
draft. Turn the rule over and draw down to lines 
"S"and"T." Here is a place where the pupil can 



display taste; if tastefully drawn the bust is very 
pretty. 

1 1. Line " Q " is finished below waist straight with 
the front line ; " S " the same. Lines " R " and "T" has 
a slight slant by placing the rule at dot between ( i 2) 
and (13) the same as on Fig. 2. 

12. One-halfofan inch is taken off from line "L" 
at (18.) 

In this draft we have taken off one-half inch from 
waist line at (9) which we have added to line " A " of 
side-body. The pupil will soon see that anything like 
this can be done to improve the shape or style of the 
pattern, if whenever we take off from one part, we 
add to another in the same line of measurement. 

The neck of back can be wide or narrow providing 
you take the same width from the hip to neck meas- 
urement. 

The darts may be commenced farther back or 
farther front on line " C." The space between darts 
may be one-half, three-fourths, one inch and even 
more. Width of back at waist line may be three- 
fourths, seven-eighths, one inch, one and one-fourth 
or two inches and it may even run to a point below 
(8) on line " D" if the space between (10) and (6) is 
changed accordingly. 

With the round end of the rule down make the little 
curve you see out from point (9). Always make a 
curve wherever an angle occurs. 



~t" 



{grafting on the Joining. 



All drafts for practical use are made at once on the 
lining. 

The lining should be double, and the draft made 
crosswise of the goods. 

Place the waist line just far enough from the right 
hand edge of the goods to allow for the skirt of the 
basque, on back, front and side body alike. 

Draft the length Under Arm, length of Waist, Hip 
to Neck and Darts one-half inch longer than the 
measures. 

Pin the lining firmly together before using the trace 
wheel . 

Allow for all seams outside of the tracing, at Neck 
and Armhole about one-fourth inch, and three-fourths 
inch for the other lines. 

Take up one-half inch of the lining in a pleat at 
waist line on each part of the basque and fasten 
securely with pins; also a small dart in front on line 
" F," and another at Armhole, unless the French dart 
is made. 



O 



19 



-o 



<> 



Pin the lining on the material and cut 



lining while it is pinned in this way. 
parts of the basque. 



out like the 
Do this for all 



^ow to leasts the Front. 



Lay the lining on the material, and before basting 
pin it in the following manner : 

From Neck Point to one-third length of shoulder 
make a point. Pin at Neck Point and full the lining 
evenly one-half inch between this and the one-third 
point of the shoulder. Trim the material off at point 
of shoulder to match the lining. 

Baste across the front one and one-half inches be- 
low the tops of the darts, and again just below waist 
line. 

Take out the pins in the pleat and baste through 
the tracing lines, fulling the lining evenly between the 
waist line and the line two and one-half inches below 
the top of darts. The pleat at line "F," and at arm- 
hole is fulled into the material in a space of two or 
more inches. 



feovo to 'jSaste the "j3ac^. 



4 



Pin the lining on the material. Baste through 
waist line, and again two inches above. 

Take out the pins in the pleat and full evenly be- 
tween the two bastings. 

Baste along every trace line, being careful in bast- 
ing not to sew the fullness down in pleats. 

The side form and side body are basted in the same 
manner. 

i. Baste up the darts from the top down, paying 
no attention to the waist line. 

2. Join the side body to the front by pinning the 
waist lines together, and basting through the traced 
lines. 

3. Join the side form to the back by pinning the 
points on waist line together. The round form on 
line " M" may be fulled a trifle if necessary. 

4. Join the side form to the side body by pinning 
together at the armhole or top. 

5. The shoulder at the front will be three-fourths 
inch shorter than at the back. Stretch the front very 
hard, and full the back a little from point of neck to 
point of shoulder. 

6. Baste over the lap at the trace line. 

The right side is left out to form a fly under the 
button-holes. 

7. Join the backs by pinning them evenly at the 
waist line. 



8. Finish the seams by turning in the edges, or 
binding with ribbon. 

9. The bones or stays should be well stretched 
into each seam. They should be very thin and pli- 
able. 

10. It may be well to mention that seaming a 
waist on the bastings lessens it one-half inch in size. 
Seaming it just inside the bastings lessens it one inch 
in size, and seaming it just outside of the bastings 
does not change the size. 

Linings for wash dresses should be cut straight 
with the grain of the goods. Silks will not bear as 
much stretching at the shoulder as wool dresses. 
Thin, scrawny forms can be made to look well by 
padding the waist and sleeves with one or two layers 
of wadding. Pad to one or two inches below the 
arms. Lay on front, back and forms, cutting out the 
wadding at the darts. When two layers are used, 
cut the under one an inch shorter than the upper. 
The sleeve is padded to the elbow in the same man- 
ner. For common basting cut linings and material 
same length, but in other respects proceed as before. 



t 



Basque with fwo |Jndei>arms. 



(Fig. 9.) 

This diagram is for a stout figure, with bias darts 
and two under arms. 

This shape should be used for all figures exceed- 
ing 38 inches bust measure, and exceeding 28 inches 
waist measure. 

Size of bust 40 inches. 

Size of waist „ „ 28 inches. 

Length of waist 15*^ inches. 

Length under arm 8^ inches. 

Length from hip to neck l 9/4 inches. 

Length of shoulder 5 inches. 

Width of back 12 inches. 

Length of front 17^ inches. 

This draft as you see involves an entire change of 
measures. 

1. Point 1 is made at 40 in the neck scale. Point 
3 is made at 40 in front scale on line " A." Points 6 
and 7 at 8)4 on dart scales, point 8 at 28 waist scale, 
and point 9 at 40 bust scale. 

2. Line " C " is lengthened to one inch in front of 
point 4, point 10 is two inches from the end of line 
" C," 1 1 is one and one-half inches from 10, point 12 is 
three-fourths inches from 11, and point 13 is one and 
one-half inches from 1 2. After lines " J " and " K " 
are drawn to dots in the middle of the darts, a point 
is made one-half inch in front of IO, and three-fourths 
inch out from 13 on line " C." 

This gives a width of two inches in the front dart, 
and two and one-fourth in the second dart, making 
in all a width of four and one-fourths inches for both 
darts. 



so 



4 



<h" 



According to our dart calculation we have three 
and one-fourth inches between 8 and g, one inch in 
front of 3, making in all three and one-fourth inches, 
and one inch, or four and one-fourth inches, which 
is the amount we have used, and as we wish to make 
two side bodies for this draft, we will make our calcu- 
lation for the same at once on line "C." 

3. Place the division for side-body at point 9, and 
make a point out on line " C," at 28 in the scale 
for side-body. 



taken off from hip to neck measure for width of back 
at neck, leaving seventeen and one-half inches for 
length of front. 

7. Point 18 is made at 40 in the scale for neck. 

8. Set a point in from 14, two inches on line " N," 
and draw line " O," from this point to width of front 
on waist line. 



-t 




9- 

10. 
Fig. 
11. 



Line " M " is drawn five inches to measure. 
The darts below waist line are finished as on 



Now bring the square back along line " C," to the 
three-fourths inch out from 13. Measure the distance 
from here to your last point made on line " C," which 
in this case is seven inches. 

4 On the long arm of the square find 7 in the 
scale of 3rds, this will give you the exact width of 
each side body at waist line, also of the width outside 
of the second dart on the front. 

5. Place the corner of the square again at the 
three-fourths inch out from 13, with the long arm on 
line " C," short arm to the left, and make a point 
at 7 in the scale of thirds. This will be the width 
of front on waist line as you see in Fig. 9. 

6. Point 14 is made at 40 in the Bust scale, 15 is 
made at 40 in the breast scale and two inches are 



The side bodies can each be made separately 
or can be set apart for darts below line " C," for 
wrappers or Princess dresses, and they may be made 
with either of the fronts previously drawn. 

1 2. To set them apart on line " C," or waist line, 
make point 1 of side-body two inches from the end 
of line " O," and point 2 at 7 in the scale of thirds. 
Number the points on this side-body like the second 
under arm. This is the first side-body. Make the 
other two and one-half inches from the first, and in the 
same manner at waist line. Draw line " C " up to 
length of line " O," whatever it may be. Line " D " 
is then drawn from 3 to 4. Line " H " is drawn one- 
fourth above 1 and 2. 

13. Second under arm is drawn exactly like Fig. 
3, with the exceptions of points on waist line. 

14. To finish below the waist line. Make a point 
in the middle between the forms on waist line and 
draw a line six inches down between each space. 
Place " F " on the lines above and draw to a point at 
the end of these lines. Line " F" is made as before. 

15. To draw under arms separately, draw above 
waist lines as before explained and for the first one, 
make a point on waist line three-fourths inch in front 
of point 1, and one inch out from point 2. Draw lines 
six inches down from these points. Place " F" at the 
end of lines " C" and " E" and draw to the end of 
these lines. 

16. For second side body. Make a point three- 
fourths inch in front of point 1, draw a line six 

inches down and draw line " G" to the end of 

this. Lines " P " and " F " are drawn as before. 

\ This gives a slant of five inches over the hips 

\ which is one-half inch more than on the other 

'« draft. 

17. As this draft is for a large figure and large 
hips we have given more room, however a calculation 
can be made for giving only one-half inch or less, the 
same as on the other Figures. 

1 8. For a very large bust it will be necessary to 
use the width of back measure; if so, measure out on 
line " E " one-half width of back and change line " F" 
to this point, whatever is taken out of the back in 
this way, must be added to the front. This can be 
added at the top of either side body or out on line 
"F." 

19. For a high full stomach use length of front 
measure, which in this case in 17%^ inches. Taking 
off width of neck at back leaves 15^; measure down 
from point 17 to where the 1 5^ strikes line" A," (see 
dotted line) and make a point, draw a line from this 
point to point 9 for a new dart line. This is shown 
by a dotted line also on Fig. 9. The darts are now 



■& 



21 



4 



<> 



<> 



made on this line as on line " C," and must be slanted 
from this line for skirt of basque. 

20. Such a figure as above described usually can 
be fitted very low in the back below the waist line, 
and it will be well to take a measure below a straight 
waist line as far down the back as she can be fitted. 
If one and one-half or two inches, then set point 5 
down to this measure and proceed as before. Apply 
hip measure before cutting. 

As we are through with all of the lesson patterns, 
we will now use a set of drasts made by the Tailor's 
Square, with the exception of children's garment, 
which is again made by the system. As every change 
is so fully explained and pointed out on these dia- 
grams you will find them fully as easy to comprehend 
as the preceding ones. 



I^asque with Qne E)art. 

(Fig. 9.) 




As everything has been so fully explained in the 
previous lessons it will now only be necessary to no- 
tice a few points where the changes have been made. 

In this draft we have the three inches between 5, 
and 6, that must be taken out somewhere. We first 
take a dart of one-half inch off from front, then leave 
a space of two inches and point off for the one dart 
first two inches then one-half inch. The dotted line 
showing that the one-half inch is all on one side of 
the dart. We also take off one-half inch on line "G," 
and three-fourths of an inch on line " C," and add the 
same to the side body at top and waist line, which 



leaves three-fourths to add to side body at waistline. 
This side body is drawn like the other, entirely a sep- 
arate draft. 

Line "O," of front must strike line "J," two and 
one-half inches from end of line " N." 

The dotted line shows a low neck. 



jSae^ with Forms Running to gbouldet. 

{Fig. 10.) 

I. Make the diagram as before. Draw line "J" 
three and one-half inches toward (13). Strike a line 
parallel with line " B" across the end of this line and 
mark out two inches. From this point finish line "J" 
toward (13), which is set out on line " E" two inches. 
Line " J" may in this way be divided in the middle or 
at any point. 




2. To draw line " M," place (14) at (9), and 
draw from line " D" to " J." 

3. To draw line " N" make a point online "E" 
one and three-fourths inches from line "M" place 
"H" at this point and draw down through (10) to 
line " D," then reverse the rule, place " H " at the 
same point and draw up to line " J." The dotted lines 
show the low neck on this draft. Also a small dart in 
the lining at armhole. This back can be used with 
any front. 



•O- 



33 



4" 



<> 



-+ 



Th 



is Qiagram §bows Basque without 
H)arts. 




3. Make a point one inch in from (15) on line 
" G," and draw a straight line from (5) to this point. 
Now place " F " at (5), and draw to where this line 
crosses line " Q." This is line " N" on the diagram. 
Finish it above line " Q" by turning the rule over so 
as to make an outward curve, placing "F" on line 
" Q," and drawing to the point one inch in from (15.) 

4. Line " O" strikes line "J" two inches from 
line " F." 

5. Curve between line " N" and " O" with pencil. 

6. The inch taken off from the front at (15) and 
at (3), must be added to the side body at top and 
waist line. 

7. Point (1) for the side body must be made one 
and three-fourths inches from the edge of the paper 
in front, to give room over the hips. Line " G" 
strikes the edge of the paper six inches down, as be- 
fore. 

A side body drawn like the plain lines will fit on 
this front, and any back. One drawn like the plain 
lines in front, and dotted lines in back, will fit this 
front and the French Back. 

Line " E," to fit the French Back, Fig. 12, must be 
drawn nine and three-eighths inches above waist line, 
and three-fourths inch below. 

One drawn entirely like the dotted lines would fit 
the French Back and the common fronts. 



{Fig. 11.) 

1. Draw this diagram as before. Draw a line 

across points (12) and (13), and mark it " Q." 

2. Make a point one inch from front on line "C." 
Place "G" at this point and draw down to cross line 
"A" seven inches from (3). Now reverse the rule, 
place " G " at the same point and draw up to cross 
line '"A," three-fourths inch below (14). The curve 
in front of line "A" is drawn from the three-fourths 
inch below (14), to one and one-fourth inches above 
(11), by placing "A" at the end of the line already 
drawn below (14). Finish the line to neck with the 
straight edge of rule. 



Directions for grafting French I3ae^. 

{Fig. 12.) 
This diagram explains the French Back. 
The French Back is very pretty with front Fig. 1 1 , 
without darts, and it may be used with either of the 
fronts before explained. The only change is, that the 
side body instead of being taken out of the 
middle or between the forms of the back, 
is taken off from bust and waist line inside 
of point 6 and 1 2. 

I. Place 24 on the scale for side 
body at 6 and make a point back 
at the corner of the square on line 

" C," this leaves the width of back between 8 and 9; 
then mark back from 12 the width of side-body at top 
on line " E," which leaves width of back at this 
point. 

2. Shorten line "K," one-half inch and make line 
"P," by placing " F," at line below 9, and drawing 
along the scale to point set in on line " K." 

3. Line"Q" intersects line "H," four inches from 
end of line "P." 

4. The side bodies explained with Fig. 1 1, fit this 
back, 




33 



4 



o 



<> 



£l]e frencl} "fjack. 



front according to any style. Seamless corsages have 
found such favor that a seamless dress has been pro- 
duced by Worth. This is a dress of elastic wool 
such as ladies' cloth or crepon, drawn smoothly over 
a fitted waist lining of silk and covering a bell-shaped 
skirt of silk. Cutting the cloth bias facilitates mat- 





Directions for Drafting Seamless Corsage or 
Waist. 



The Seamless Corsage is easiest cut by joining the 
front and back of a waist pattern at the under-arm 
seam. This pattern must be cut similar to the blouse 
or Spencer waist with these exceptions. This waist 
must be drafted on the straight base lines for front 
and back. Line "N," on the front must be drawn 
from point g to 14, and the half and quarter inch at 
points 7 and 8; on the back must be taken off inside 
of point 6 on line "C." Line "P," is then drawn from 
this point to 11. The goods must be folded to cut 
the middle of the back and front whole, leaving the 
opening under either arm, across the back or front. 
The cloth may be on the bias, either in the back or 



ters in these dresses as it then clings more closely 
when stretched around the waist and also furnishes 
greater fullness in the skirt. Seams that are abso- 
lutely necessary are concealed by trimming and the 
dress is fastened invisibly, usually on the left side. 
This dress has a princess back with round waist 
front and is fastened diagonally across the back, from 
the point of the right shoulder to the left of back at 
waist line. This fastening is concealed by trimming 
which curves up in front of the right arm then crosses 
the back diagonally and extends around the front 
of waist as a girdle to meet on the right a similar 
band with which it forms an edge for the trimming 
down the skirt. A similar trimming or a band of fur 
surrounds the left arm and borders the skirt. 

The width of this back at waist line corresponds 
with the French Back, and the skirt or trail is cut 
below for any fullness desired, even to a straight 
edge on the goods. 



<> 



■e 



t~ 



^bese diagrams §hov\? a J^louse, Spencer or gacque. 






Front. 

There is hardly an explanation necessary here, as 
the diagram so plainly shows the changes. 

I. As the front must be straight for the lap, draw 
a straight line one and one-half inches from the edge 
of the paper, measure down on this line length of 
waist fifteen inches. From this make a point out one 
inch for point (3). Now draw lines " A" and " B," on 
a slant from top of front line through (3), etc. 

Line "B" is drawn square with "A." 



* 



2. The shoulder seam is made nearly on top of 
shoulder by changing points to one-half inch below 
(17), and one inch below (16). Point (1) is made one- 
half inch in front of (36) in the scale for neck, and a 
point set one-fourth inch in front of that for neck. In 
any case where the front is not rounded to Neck, 
point (1) must be moved toward line 'A." Figs. 13 
and 14 can be drafted in like manner for children. 
Take up one-half inch dart at arms eye on the lining. 

The Sailor Collar is drafted by putting the front 
and back of waist togethes at shoulder, and marking 
along the edge of the pattern for neck, front, back, etc. 

From this make any style of collar you wish. See 
three styles on cut. 



Back. 

Lines " A" and " B" are here drafted on a slant of 
one-half inch, as a one-half inch dart is taken off from 
the standard draft for back, which added to our one- 
half inch gives us an inch as before. 

1. Point 1 is here made at front neck size, the 
same as on the front, a point is then set toward line 
"A," one-half inch (one-fourth to match front, and 
one-fourth more, as the front laps one-fourth inch). 

2. The one-half inch taken off from the front, 





below point (17), is here added above point (1), and 
the one inch taken off below point (16) is added 
above (13V These changes can be made on any 
draft, to bring the shoulder line on top of shoulder 
far back, or a medium. These drafts can be cut off 
at waist line for a Spencer Waist. Line " N" of front 
and line " P" of back can be slanted out for any full- 
ness, or can be brought in for less fullness, as the 
style or fashion demands. See dotted lines. 

Line " K" must run to one-half inch below line 
" E," as you see on the diagram, to make the length 
under the arm match the front. 

A dart of one-half inch must be taken up on the 
linng at arms eye, unless dotted lines are used. 



<> 



<> 



gleeue with H)art to £Jlbow>. 

(Fig. 15J 



With this diagram we will try to explain a sleeve 
with dart to elbow. 

i. Draw line "B" the width of sleeve at elbow 
and one and three-fourths inches curve on both upper 
and under part of sleeve. 




This gives a width of ten and one-half, one and 
three-fourths, one and three fourths, which added 
gives us fourteen inches for length of line " B." 

2. Draw a line from the end of line " B," parallel 
with line " A," and on this line make points exactly 
opposite points, on line " A." 

3. From 7, make points in for curve of sleeve one 
and three-fourths inches. 

4. Make a point out from 5, on line " C," one and 
one-half inches. Draw top of sleeve to this point and 
the under part from this, to point 4. 



5. Make point 9, at one-half size of elbow and 
draw lines ' L " to this point. 

6. The' dotted lines show three-fourths inch taken 
off from under part, and the curve at upper part of 
sleeve. 



t 



Plain Qoat §leev>e. 

(Fig. 16J 




This diagram shows a plain coat sleeve. 

1. The inch is not added to top of sleeve in this 
draft. 

2. Line " F" is drawn toward point 5 to one-half 
distance between lines " B " and " C." 

3. Line "H" is then curved above line " C " to 
strike line " D," just half way between " B " and " C." 

4. The outlines of upper and under part of sleeve 
are then drawn from and to these points. 



<*-■ 



<> 



1 



<* 



*<*• 



•^ CO rfi <I oo 



i-i tf* en oa <i 




7Wedici Collar. 

{Fig. 17.) 



The neck from point to middle (which is shown on 
the cut by dotted lines), is made with the rule, 
commencing at point 14*, or two inches from "A," 
and drafting along the edge for the length required. 
The outside is rounded over from middle to point or 
made square at the top according to style preferred. 



allel with the first and any width desired, finish the 
front end either slightly rounded or square. The 
dotted line is middle of back. 



Tight-Fitting gand. 

(Fig. 19.) 




This is Fig. 18 reversed. 

The dotted lines show a different finish for the bands. 
These bands are drawn for a neck, size 14 inches, 
width two inches. 



Goat G°Uar. 

(Fig. 20.) 



glaring J^and. 

(Fig. 18.) 



Draw an oblong square seven and one-half inches 
by three and one-fourth inches. Mark the ends of 
the lower line a-b and the upper line c-d. The figures 
on the diagram; mark from the nearest letter. Make 
the first point one-third of an inch from a, the next 
two inches from a, — one and one-fourth inches from 
b, one inch from b, — one-half and two and one-half 
=-rtT!4l__.Ji ) inches from c, also another one and one-half inches 
up from a. 

1. Draw the neck by placing 14* at 1, and draw- 
ing alonsj the inside of the rule to 2. 



In drafting this band commence at point 14'", on 
inside of curve and draft along the edge for the 
length at neck. Make another line below exactly par- 



2. Place F at % and draw to d. 

3. Place F at ^ and draw to 2}4- 

4. Draw a straight line from 1 to ]/ 2 . 

5. Draw the line for roll of collar from 1 y. 
See dotted line on diagram. 



to 1 u 



<> 



i 






-O- 



B rcc > 




(£» © <X> 



1 






-1-1- 





plain §bam Sl^irt. 

Fig. 21. 



t. This plain foundation skirt is given in Nos. 
I, 2 and 3. It has a gored front and side breadths 
and a straight back. The full dimensions in inches 
are marked in the outlines of the breadths. The dis- 
tances indicated at the top and sides are measured 
from the corners lettered " A." 

2. At fifteen and twenty-seven inches from the top 
of the back strips of lining are stitched across the 
back and side breadths as indicated by the lines to 
form casings in which to put draw strings to tie back. ' 

3. Cut Nos. 1 and 3 each on the double, with the 
line marked "middle" on the fold. 

4. The dotted lines on Nos. 2 and 3 show a skirt 
straight around the bottom. 

5. Slope away the top of the front as indicated on 
the diagram, take up the hip darts indicated, gather 
the top of the back closely and set it on a band. 

These skirts can be enlarged or made smaller, to 
any proportionate length or width. 



<P— 



^oundatoin S^irt for ^rain. 

Fig. 22. 



Nos. i to 3 give the diagram pattern of this 
foundation skirt which is preferably made of lining 
silk. 

The full dimensions in inches are marked on the 
diagram, and the distances at the top, etc., are meas- 
ured from the corners lettered a, b and c. 

Cut the front and back each on the double, from 
Nos. 1 and 3, and cut two side breadths from No. 2. 
Face the bottom of this skirt 12 inches deep with a 
foundation lining, border the outside with a narrow 
pleating, and on the inside set a pinked ruffle five 
inches deep, for a balazeuse. 

Cut the slit indicated at the middle of the back. 

Across the back and side breadths, along the lines, 
stitch two casings for draw strings. 

Gather the top of the back from the star on No. 
2 and join the skirt to a band. 



28 



<* 



t 



ft Rarrow #ell SK'^. 




This skirt has a plain front and a bias seam down 
the back. The full dimensions in inches are marked 
on the diagram. The distances indicated for the slope 
are to be measured from the corner lettered " A." 

Cut it with middle of front on a straight fold of the 
goods. Join the back from the star down. 

Pleat two pleats on each side of the middle of the 
back by bringing x on . , and gather the rest 
slightly. Hang it on a lining foundation skirt which 
is two and one-fourth yards wide, is tied back with 
draw strings and faced four inches deep with the 
dress material around the bottom. 



~t* 



^be Qemi-^rained French §^irt. 




4 



Goat SK ip t G"t in Widths f or §U^. 

(Fig. 25.) 

A diagram pattern of this skirt is given in Fig. 
25, Nos. 1-4, with the full dimensions in inches 
marked on the breadths. 

Cut the front and back each on the double, from 
Nos. 1 and 4, and cue two pieces each from Nos. 2 
and 3. Join the breadths as the corresponding lines 
indicate, leaving a slit at the left side^of the 0003 M ( , 
back. Hollow out the top of the front 
slightly, and take up the hip dart in No. 2. 
Pleat x on # in each half of the back breadth, 
then pleat x a on #a > an< ^ x D on # b, and 
mount the skirt on a foundation skirt. Tack 
the points *to the foundation skirt. The front 
and first side breadths may be trimmed either 
with pleating, velvet or gimp. The sham 
for this skirt should be six inches longer in 
the back than in the front. Should be tied 
back with draw strings at 8, 16 and 24 
inches from the top. Should be two and 
five-eighths yards wide at the bottom, and 
trimmed with a two-inch knife pleating. 




Fig. 24 

Fig. 24 is a plain, demi-trained French skirt; 
made without a foundation skirt, but lined with 
skirt silk throughout. No. 1 representing half of 
the narrow front breadth and No. 2 the back which 
has a sloped seam down the middle; the full dimen- 
sions in inches are marked on the diagram. The 
distances indicated for pleats at the top of No. 2 
are to be measured from the corner lettered "A," the 
dotted upper edge is to be sloped away. For the 
front take one breadth of material folded on the 
double and slope it according to No. 1. 

Hollow out the top of the front slightly, as may 
be required, pleat one pleat on each side by bring- 
ing x on - . Pleat two pleats on the sides by bring- 
ing x ° n •? an d form a triple pleat at each side of 
the middle of back by bringing the three points 
to X . Tack the back two points * together in 
each half and at the further * set a pair of tape 
strings attached to short elastic straps for tying 
back. 



00 en 



No. 4 2 



-Hr 




29 



--<*- 



o 



■-$>• 



^he Princess or 7W orn i n ^ 6 own - 

Fig. 26. 



i. The lining for this Princess must be cut with 
small darts, else too much fullness in the skirt be- 
low the waist. 

As our measures give us three inches between 5, 
and 6, point off one-half inch from line " C," at 



4. Cut to six inches below the waist as direct- 
ed, and apply the hip measure, then slant for the 
fullness of skirt indicated by the figures at the bot- 
tom of this draft. The slanting is always done on 
the lines running toward the back of the garment. 

5. The cross ( x ) goes on the dot (.) for the 
pleats in the back. 

6. For a loose fitting front, make a point one 
inch in front of 3, on line " C," and one inch out 




point 3, for a small dart; this leaves only two and 
one-half inches, or one and one-fourth in each dart. 

2. Set the lining for the side body four inches 
from point 6, on line " C," for fullness over the hips, 
and below the waist, round to a point six inches be- 
low waist line, using the curve as explained before. 

3. The side form of the back can be set at any 
distance from the middle, for pleats, etc., providing 
it is set out on a straight line as you see on Fig. 26. 



■O 



-t--t— c- 



from 6. Draw line " N" from this point, and slant the 
front line to the bottom of the skirt; also leave out 
the darts. There must be a tight fitting lining un- 
derneath this front. 

7. Draft the sleeve with dart to elbow. 

8. Use either of the bands, or the Medici 
Collar. 

9. There may be a pleated, plain or shirred 
front in this gown. 



30 



■- m* 



■{£-<■ 



<> 



Fig. 27 is a Princess with the front cut off below 
the waist. 

r. Draft the lining with the French Dart, place 
it on the outside material, so that the waist line of 
the side body is straight with the goods; the front 
will be somewhat on the bias; in other respects pro- 
ceed as before. 

2. This gown ma}- have a vest, a pleated or 
shirred front, or it ma}' be plain, with any sleeve or 
collar preferred. 



Reefer or "j^la^er Jacket. 

(Fig. 28.) 



FRONT. 



To draft an outside garment we have to make a 
change in the size of our measures. 

The size of bust, waist, neck and armhole is en- 
larged one inch. As applied to our sample meas- 
ures will be as follows: 

Bust 37. 

Waist 25. 

Neck 15. 

Armhole 17. 

1. We draft this pattern with the increased meas- 
ures and as usual commence with lines "A" and 
"B" for a basis. Line "A" must be made three 
inches from the edge of the paper to give space for 
a double breast. 

2. One inch is taken off from waist line at point 



-fy+- 



6, and the same must be added to waist line of the 
back. 

3. The one dart runs to the armhole is two 
inches wide on waist line and is three and one-half 
inches from point 3. 

4. Make a point on line "M" two and one-fourth 
inches from 15, place " II " at 8 and draw along 
the scale to this point and mark the line "R." 

5. Turn the rule over, place "F" at 7, and 
draw to line "M," one-third inch from line "R," 
mark this line "P." 

6. Finish this dart straight below point 7, and 
slant line "R" to the end of line "P." 

7. Draw line "N" from the point in from 6 to 15. 





8. Shoulder is drawn same as before. 

9. When the coat collar is to be put on, cut off 
one inch at neck on line "L." (See clotted lines for 
taking this off.) 

10. Shape the lappel with the curve. Take up 
the dart at front neck. Cut off the inch at neck 
on the back and sew on the collar from middle of 
back to 18, front neck. 

11. For a Blazer turn the fronts back the entire 
length and put on collar No. 2. 

12. This is drafted half its' length from the front 
like the tight-fitting band and toward the back the 
rule is turned over reversing the curve. 



31 



-^ 



-<b— 



<> 



fig. 29. 

BACK. 

1. The inch taken off from waist line front is 
added to the hack beyond 6. 

2. The middle of back is made one and three- 
fourths inches wide on line "C." 

3. Neck is two inches wide and when the coat 
collar is to be put on, one inch is taken off at the 
dotted line. 

4. The side body is drafted the same as for the 
basque. 

5. The sleeve is cut with dart to elbow and 
medium puff at top. Allow all seams before cutting. 




\&ox or J^oose I^aol^. 

1. Draft the front as before. Add the side body 
to the front on lines "C" and "G," before drawing 
the outlines, and leave out the darts altogether. To 
draft top of side body see Fig. 11. 

2. Draft the back as at Fig. 12, (French Back) 
with this exception. The darts at 7 and 8 if taken 
out at all must be taken off inside of point 9, leav- 
ing the middle of back straight to be cut on the fold 
of the goods. 

If a loose fit is desired do not take off width of 
darts, which makes a difference of three-fourths of 
an inch on each side of back at waist line. 

This back is usually lapped on to the fronts about 



one-half inch, and stitched twice, or on each edge 
one-half inch apart, and is left open at the bottom 
about six inches on each side. 



K, plain Ulster. 



1. Allow for double breast same as for jacket. 
Cut off one and one-half inches from waist line at 
6, as there are no dai"ts. 

2. Make middle of back one-half inch wider 
than for basque and add one-half inch to waist line 
beyond 6. 

3. Apply hip measure for this garment and then 
draft from six inches below waist line straight to 
width indicated in the lines at bottom of ulster. 

4. This cuts a skirt forty inches below waist 
line, but may be longer or shorter to measure. 




Fig. 30 

5. The sleeve is gathered at elbow and top, is 
cut at top two inches above 5- 

Cut the coat collar for the ulster. Set pockets 
into the pocket slits indicated in the front. The 
small upper one in the right front only. Finish the 
pockets with flaps which are one and one-half 
inches deep for the small pocket and two and one- 
half for the larger. Join the back side forms and 
and fronts. Press down the back side form along 
the dotted lines and stitch through the triple layer 
about an inch from the fold. Lap the left edge of 
the back over the right along the line. Face the 
front seven inches deep with canvass interlining and 
put the same in the collar. Sew up the dart at the 
top of the front and set on the collar. Face the col- 
lar and the fronts to the depth of the interlining with 
the material and roll collar and fronts for lappel. 
Work button holes in the right front and sew buttons 
on both fronts along the line. Sew two buttons on the 
skirt of the back where it laps. Work a button hole 
in each revere. If preferred the top of the sleeve 
may be pleated in four shallow pleats. 



<> 



33 



<> 



<> 



^be rjolman. 

Illustrated by Fig. ?>1 and 32. 




4 



{Front Fig. 31.) 

i. As there is only one dart of one and three- 
fourths inches width there is three-fourths inches 
taken off from waist line at 6. 

2. The dart is made four and one-fourth inches 
from point 3, on waist line and for a short front is 
run straight to botton as on basque, but for long 
tabs, is made on a slant to run out at the side as 
you see in cut. 

3. The tabs can be cut to any length desired 
below waist line, either slanted to a point or left 
square. 

Two inches must be pared off from armhole 
below (15) for Dolman. 



grafting of BacI^ and Side-body. 
(Fig. 32.) 



Besides enlarging the size of our measures as for 
all outside garments we have to take an extra 
measure for this sleeve, which is taken from mid- 
dle of back at waist line and over the arm at elbow 
to wrist, with arm bent to lie along front waist line. 
The measure is twenty-three inches for this dolman. 
We also use measure of armhole, which is seven- 
teen inches. 

1. Make the neck two inches wide on this draft 
and the middle of back two inches on line "C." 

2. Make a point one-half inch from the lower 
end of line "J." Place " G " at 9, and draw line "M" 
from line " D," to this point, turn the rule over, 
place "H" at 9, and draw line "N," from line "D," 
to "E." 

3. Draw line "P," to two inches below 12, and 
from there draw across to line "N," one inch below 
line "E." This is the side body shown in dotted 
lines on this fiVure. 

4. Below waist line place "G" at 9, round end 
up, and slant straight with the lower part of line 
"M," to 11 on the inch scale. 

5- Set a point from the end of this line six inches 
toward front edge of paper, and draw line "N," to 
this point. 



Directions for grafting any Qolman 
Sleeue or Qape. 



1. Extend line "C," to twenty-three inches from 
point 8, and extend line "E," to one-half size of 
armhole beyond line "F." 

2. Draw a short line half way between lines 
"C," and "E," as you see in the diagram. 

3. Make a point one inch bevond line "II," on 
line "E." 

4. Up from point 12, draw a strighl line to the 
top of the paper. 

5. Make a point on this line up from 12 at one- 
fourth size of armhole, which is four and one-fourth 
inches. 

6. Make another point two and one-half inches 
above this for full top of sleeve. 

7. Take the curve, place "D,'" at this last point 



:j:j 



t" 



t 



-fr 



<£\}e Dolman $\ee)>e in ^hree Different $tgles. 







with the edge of the scale on the point one inch 
from line "H," and draw from top down to line be- 
tween lines "E," and "C." This line is »F." 

8. Place point " A " here and draw along 
the concave or inside of the curve to one inch above 
line "C," at wrist of sleeve. 

9. Place "D" at top of sleeve again and draw 
line "G," to top of line ' N." Line "N," here out- 
lines the sleeve as well as the side body. 



■& 



10. Line "H," of under part of sleeve is drawn 
from the point one inch out on line "E," to top of 
side body. From this curve to lower part of cuff. 

11. There are three styles of sleeves outlined on 
this diagram. The circular sleeve, with and with- 
out a cuff, also the Mother Hubbard sleeve. 

Any and every style of dolman can be drafted in 
the same manner, also the dolman capes. 



3-4 



—fy 



& 



*> 



Ulster with Qape. 

{Fig. 33.) 



The Riding ^abit 

{Fig. 37 to 40.) 




i. This ulster is drawn without darts, 
is single breasted, and the side body cut 
with the fronts. One and one-half inches 
is taken off from the front at waist line 
and added to the back on line "C." The 
back and side form is cut like the dolman 
sleeve to line "F," the pattern of front is 
here laid on, line "F," meeting line "F" 
of sleeve. The measure from middle 
of back to wrist is now applied which 
must meet line "A," on the front of the pattern. 
The outline is now made around the shoulder, neck 
and front of the pattern down to any length. The 
bottom is slightly rounded toward back. Notch 
the cape and back at waist line, also where they 
separate on pattern near shoulder, and pin the 
notches together when basting in the cape. Join 
the fronts, side forms and back and trim the fronts 
at the lower part of armhole to correspond with 
side form of back. Join the shoulder seams and 
baste the cape on the fronts at the shoulders 
fulling it from ; to ; . Face the fronts and hem the 
bottom, set on a rolling collar, pleat the skirt of th e 
back by bringing the two points xon ,, provide 
the front with buttons and button holes and set a 
belt inside the back. 



4 



For Waist and Skirt five and one-half yards of 
material, fiftv-six inches wide. 

At one time it was thought impossible that any 
one but a tailor could make a stylish Riding Habit, 
but now many ladies have them made by dress- 
makers. 

The first thing is necessarily a good measure of 
the form, by which a correct draft can be made, as 
well for a riding habit as for a dress. 

The Habit has a few peculiarities. 

The buttons should be small and round; the 
sleeves button tightly at the wrist; the inside of the 
jacket should be lined with silk, wadded and 
stitched in close rows. 

It should have a belt inside stitched to each seam 
of the waist, which is to draw it close to the figure. 

Avoid the wrinkles, which are apt to occur 
around the waist, by giving the lines along the 
seams sufficient spring. 



35 



<> 



•& 



-*-<}• 



front of $kirt for gibing J^abit. 



9 >, 




4 



The jacket, as now made by the best trades, is 
fastened up to the throat, and has a standing collar 
rounded slightly in front. 

The skirt is cut as shown at Fig. 37, and is inter- 
lined with something firm. 

A small square tab with two button holes worked 
in it, is sewn on the inside at back waist, to hold 
the train. Small hooks are also sewn on inside at 
bottom, which match loops of silk on the train. 

The finish may be plain which is quite stylish at 
present, the edges turned in and stitched, and a 
plain lasting, or jersey button used. 

Some prefer the edges trimmed with a narrow 
silk braid, sewn on flat or bound over inside. 

Five or six buttons may be sewn on the sleeves, 
but the lower three only have worked holes. 

The diagram is drawn to measure, just the same 
as a waist, but should be made the width of a seam 
larger where the inside is wadded. 

The skirt which is drafted by the same rule as 
the dress, is shaped below waist line as seen on 
this Fig. 

The extension of side bod)' is to be turned in and 
fastened over under lapping edge of back, with a 
button. 



The front may be buttoned in the middle, and 
close up to the throat, and finished with a small 
round collar or band, or it may have a rolling collar 
as shown on Fig. 37. 

The lappel is cut separate, making it double 
breasted, and is two inches wide at the bottom and 
about two and one-half inches from 2 to 5. It is 
straight from 2 to lower end, and curved from 5 
down as you can see on the cut. One inch is taken 
off from neck and shoulder at point 1. 

The collar is cut according to directions below 
and sewn in from front neck to middle of back. 
The dotted line shows the roll of collar and lappel. 

In drafting the narrow collar, or band, commence 
about two inches from point " A," on inside line of 
curve and draft along the edge for the length at 
neck. 

Make another line below and exactly parallel 
with the first. 

Finish the front end, either rounded a trifle or 
square. The dotted line at back is the middle. 
For drafting coat collar see Fig. 20. 



36 



-f 



■o- 



-$■ 



gacH of SKirt for Riding ^abit. 




Figs. 38 and 39. 

This is an average size skirt, is a good design, 
and can very readily be enlarged or reduced to 
meet the requirements of larger or smaller forms. 

The diagrams are enlarged to full size by using 
inches. First draw line "A" — 9 and "A"— 52. 

On lines "A" — 52 draw 5, 7, 12, 3714 and 40, as 
many inches from "A." 

Then draw lines across, the same number of 
inches called for on the diagram. 

The same process will construct the back to full 
size. Three small darts out of back at waist line, 
one inch at middle and one-half on each side. 

From 9 toward 22 is pocket, and from 7 down 
eight inches is slit on left side of front. 

This train is quite short, being only a few inches 
longer than walking skirt length. 

Every lady while taking equestrian exercise 
should wear riding pants. 



■$-- 



Gutting and 7Vl a K' n £ Riding grousers. 

Fig. 40. 



Quantity of material for Trousers, one and five- 
eighths yards, forty-eight inches wide. 

These trousers, which are indispensable with a 
modern riding habit, are made of heavy material, 
such as English tricot, casimere, etc., and are cut 
from the diagram patterns Nos. 1 and 2, of Fig. 
40, of which the full dimensions in inches are 
marked on the patterns. 

The distances indicated for darts at the top of No. 
1 are measured from the corner lettered a. Also 
the lengths to hip, thigh, and to bottom, from the 
same corner. 



37- 



<> 



f 



N • 



Lady's Riding X rou S ( 2 rts ' 



No. 1 and 2. 



DO £» en 




35 V a *- 



The width at the different points along down are 
set opposite at the end of the dotted lines. 

No 2 is measured from the corner lettered b, and 
across, as at No. i. 

The outlines are made with the curve, which is 
easily placed to touch the different points. 

These trousers can be cut longer by adding two- 
thirds to the bottom and one-third to the top for the 
number of inches in length wanting, and larger by 
adding to each side proportionately. 

Join each front to a back, and join the fronts from 
1 1 % to end of dotted line for fly, and the back from 



<± 



n% to i8%\ Set a button-hole fly underneath the 
edge of the left front as indicated, and bind the 
right with a flap on which the buttons are sewed. 

Take up the dart at the lower end, face the lower 
edge and up the slit with a strip of satin, and fasten 
the slit with buttons, 

Take up the hip darts and from • to the top in 
sert a small gore of elastic webbing which is two 
and one-half inches wide at the top. At * and •, 
fasten the ends of a stirrup strap of stout elastic 
webbing nine inches long. Finish the top with a 
band of the material and lining an inch and a quar- 
er deep. 



38 



4 



f- 



-o- 



Ctyiloren's Qarmerts Cutting and )Making. 

— B 




(Fig. 34.) 



(Fig. 85.) 



This represents the plain front of a child's dress. 
The measures for this dress are taken the same 
as for a large lad}', and are : 

Size of bust. 26 inches. 

Size of waist 22 inches. 

Length of waist 12 inches. 

Under arm. 7 inches. 

Hip to neck. 15 inches. 

Shoulder 3^ inches. 

Armhole. ii/4 inches. 

Length of arm 12 inches. 

Size of elbow 9 inches. 

Size of wrist 6y 2 inches. 

A child's waist has no bust form and must be cut 
wider across the bust according to the measure 
than for a developed form, else the waist has a 
drawn or pinched look. Allowances for this are 
already made on the graded bust scale. The front 
must be straight, or nearly so, and may be either 
open, seamed, or cut on a fold of the material. 

1. Place the square on line "A" and "B" as 
before and make a point one-half inch in front of 
26 in the scale for neck. 

This point must be moved toward the front in 
every case where we wish to cut the front on a fold 
of the goods or want a straight front. 

2. Measure down on line " A " two inches and 
make a point. This will place shoulder seam 
farther on top of shoulder. 

3. Points 3, 4 and 5 are made as before. 

4. Make points 6 and 7 at waist and bust size. 
Points 8 and 9 at bust and breast size. Point 10 at nine 
inches out from 2, for slope of shoulder. Point 11 
is at end of hip to neck measure on line "I," and as 
the back of neck is to be one-half inch wider on ac- 



count of change at shoulder, we take two inches 
from 15 which leaves length of front or hip to neck 
measure 13 inches. 

5. For all children or persons not having a de- 
veloped bust use size of armhole which for this 
little pattern is eleven and one-half inches. 

Place 11^2 in the scale of sixths at 8 and make 
point 9 back at the corner of the square. 

6. For all outlines use the curve as before. 

7. As there is one and one-half inches between 
*76 and 7 set a point inside of 7 about one inch and 

leave the one-half inch for a loose fit as a child 
must not be fitted as close as a developed figure. 

8. This front can be fitted with a dart instead 
of taking the inch off at 7. 

(Fig. 35.) 

This diagram gives t h e back of a child's waist. 

This is cut with a lap of one and one-half 
inches which is to be folded on the line. The one- 
half inch is for buttons and button-holes, and is not 
folded. 

Lines " A" and " B" commence at this line. 

On this diagram I see there is a mistake. The 
dotted line should be line " A," and the plain line 
should be dotted. 

(1st.) Point 1 is only four inches down on line 
" A." Points 2, 3, 4 and 5 as before. 

(2nd.) Point 9 at neck is set out one-half inch 
beyond 26 in neck scale, and line "J" is drawn from 
one-half inch below 7, or bust size, same as blouse. 

(3rd.) Line "J" is drawn by placing " D" at 
dot below 7. All the other outlines as previously 
directed. 

The one-half and one-fourth inch dart that is 
taken from other backs must be taken off on 
line "C," at point 6. One-fourth inch may also be 
taken of at 7- 

This basque or waist may be cut with a side 
bod}* and with a form in the back by the same rule 
as for large waists. It may be seamed in the back 
and open in front, in which case the darts will be 
taken out of the middle of the back as before. 

An open back for a large waist is cut with the 
lap and button fly similar to this: A dart of one- 
half inch should be taken out of the armhole in 
the lining. 

The Princess, or any style, can be cut from this, 
by following directions for large gowns. 

Fig. 30. 

This diagram gives the plain sleeve for a child. 

There are very few changes in this sleeve. 

Point 8 is only one and one-half inches from line 
"A," and the point opposite 5, three-fourths inch 
from line "B." 

This sleeve may be cut to gather at elbow, or any 
changes made as on the others. 

This way of cutting will fit a boy as well as a 
girl. 



<± 



:•!) 



-<-<>- 



t 



Suit for I^oy's. 




Fig. 36. 



Quantity of material: one and three-eighths 
yards of cloth, fifty-two inches wide, and one and 
one-eighth yards of flannel forty-four inches wide. 

With Figs, i and 2 we will commence a little 
suit for a boy from four to five years old. 

Figs. 1 and 2. 

For these little trousers it will be necessary to 
take the following measures: 

Length from waist line over hip 

to floor 24 inches. 

Length for knee pants. 16 inches. 

Around waist. 24 inches. 

Around thigh 19 inches. 

Around calf of leg. 12 inches. 

The measures around thigh and calf of leg are 
taken as loose as the garment is to be when made. 

1. First make base lines " A" and "B.' ; 

2. Measure down on line "A" sixteen inches 
for knee length, and make point 1. 

3. Measure out on line " B," one-fourth of 
waist size, which is six inches by this measure, then 
allow one and one-fourth inches more for lap in 
front, and make point 2. 




GO 

4. Measure down on line "A" one-third 
length of measure from waist to floor, and make 
point 3. 

5. As the front of these little trousers must be 
narrow in proportion to the back, take one inch 
from one-half of the thigh measure, which leaves 
us eight and one-half inches. Point 4 is then eight 
and one-half inches across from 3. 

6. At the bottom divide the measure and take 
off one-half inch, which leaves us five and one-half 
inches according to this measure. This sets point 
5 at five and one-half inches from 1. 

7. Make a point down on line "A" five inches 
for slit, and another two inches up from point 1. 
This gives every point to measure. 

8. Make a point one inch in from 4, on line 
"C." From this make a point one inch up. Place 
"F" at this point and draw from 2 to 4, and mark 
the line '«D." 

9. Again place "D" at the same point and draw 
around the curve to 6, and mark the line "E." 

10. Place " E" on end of rule at 5, and draw to 
1, and mark the line "F." 

11. Place "G" at 4 and draw to 5> and mark 
the line "G." 



^— 



40 



I 



<> 



( Fig. 2.) 
Make base lines as before. 
i. Measure down on line "A" seventeen and 
one-fourth inches, and make point i. 

2. Measure out on line "B" six inches, and 
make point 2. 

3. Measure down on line "A" two and one- 
half inches, and make point 3. 

4. Make point 4, nine and one-fourth inches 
down from 3, or one and one-fourth inches longer 
than front of trousers. 

5. Make point 5 across from 4, on line "C," 
one inch longer than half of thigh measure, which 
is ten and one half inches. 

6. Make point 6 one and one-halt inches up 
from 4. 

7. Draw a line from 6, parallel with line "C," 
and mark it "D." Make this line one and one- 
quarter inches shorter than line "C," and make 
point 7 at end of line. 

8. Make point 8 one inch from 1. 

9. From 8 measure out six and one-half inches 
and mark the point 9, (which adds the one-half inch 
taken off from front at point 5.) 

10. Make a point one-half inch in from 3, and 
draw from this point to 2, and mark the line "E." 
Observe the small dart taken out on this line. 

11. Place "G" at point marked in from 3, and 
draw to 6. Mark this line "F." 

12. Place " G" at 2, and make an outward 
curve to 7. Then place "F" at 5 and draw an in- 
ward curve to 7. Mark this line "G." 

13. Place "F" at 5, and draw to 9. Mark this 
line »H." 



14. Place "F" at 5, and draw one inch past 1. 
Mark this line "I". Draw from end of line "I" 
up two inches for under-lap. 



f 




Fig's 3 and 4.) 

This little underwaist is cut similar to Figs. 34- 
35, and the same measures are used for these waists 
and sleeves. 

Point 1 at neck is set out on line "B," two inches 
and the two inches is taken off from the hip to neck 
measure. Leave space for lap, buttons etc., as at 
Fig. 35, and cut the front on the fold of the goods. 
Leave out the darts and draft to one and one-half 
inches below waist line. 




<> 



-41 



<> 



■e 



This figure gives half of blouse and is cut exactly 
as at Figs. 13-14, with the exception of the square 
neck or lappel, which is drawn square two and one- 
half inches in front of point 18, then slanted from 
there to the bottom of the front. 

This waist is ten inches under the arm and the 
dotted line shows a space for a plastron or lap six 
inches down from the neck, which, as you see is 
square from the point of shoulder instead of round 
as at Fig. 13. 

The collar Fig. 6, is cut same as on Fig. 13, only 
wider across the back and is square on the front. 
The half of collar is six inches across the back and 
comes over on the front, only to the square neck. 

Fig. 7? i s a small collar for the jacket and is 
drafted the same as at Fig. 20. See collars. 




fig 8 and 9. 



Figs. 8 and 9 give front and back of jacket. 

As the garment is to be worn over the blouse, 
size of bust, waist, neck, etc., must be one inch 
larger than the measure taken. The back of neck 
for this garment must be two inches wide on line 
" B," consequently two inches is taken off from hip 
to neck measure for point 17 of front. The side 
body is added to this front at points 5 and 15 as 
you see and the waist is cut two and one-half inches 
below waist line at the front and back and one inch 
under the arm. To cut the back, take width of side 
body off inside of points 12 and 6. 



*^-<- 




fig 10. 



Fig. 10 is a sleeve for the blouse Fig. 5- 
Draft the top of the sleeve as at Fig. 15, and 
from the top cut straight to wrist leaving the small 
lap of two and one-fourth inches by three-fourths 
wide on the under part. The sleeve is rounded 
slightly at wrist and has four pleats, two lapping 
each way from the middle, which are stitched two 
and one-fourth inches long and lap one and one- 
fourth inches, leaving a space between each pleat of 
one-half inch, the middle a box pleat of one and 
one-fourth inches wide. 



Fig. 11. 



All measures around arm and shoulder are to be 
enlarged one inch before drafting this sleeve and as 
the blouse has a very loose sleeve it may be well 
to enlarge elbow measure two inches. 

Cut the top of sleeve the same as at Fig. 16 and 
the wrist nearly as wide as at elbow, as this is to be 
loose over the pleated sleeve. 



43 



4- 



<> 



<> 



Directions for faking #og's Suit. 



This little suit looks well to have the trousers 
and jacket of some dark serge goods as blue or 
black, and the sailor blouse of finely checked goods 
as black or blue and white flannel. 

The trousers are attached to a silesia under-waist 
which is cut and explained at Fig's 3-4. Cover 
the fronts of the under waist with serge, and the 
backs with black silesia. 

Join each front and back of the trousers and join 
the halves. Set pockets into the fronts at the slit 
on line "A," and sew on under lapping fly in with 
them. 

Set a button-hole fly underneath the edge of the 
left front, and bind the right with a flap for buttons. 
Bind the bottoms of the legs with a band three- 
fourths of an inch deep and thirteen inches wide 
around, fulling the front slightly for the knee, fin- 
ish the band with a small buckle, and fasten up 
the slit with buttons. Sew up the small dart at the 
top of the back, and bind it with a band an inch 
and a quarter deep; set a lining band with button 
holes inside of the other band, by which to button 
the trousers to the under-waist. Join the parts of 
the under-waist and set the trousers on the front 
along the waist line. 

For the blouse, cut the body and collar each on 
the double, as explained at Figs. 5-6, and cut the 
sleeves as at Fig. 10, join the shoulders of the 
blouse and from the bottom of fronts up to the 
dotted line for plastron, and sew on the collar from 
the middle of back at neck to the beginning of the 
square front. 

Face the collar in connection with the corner of 



the front marked off on the pattern by the dotted 
lines, with the material, border it with three rows 
of narrow braid and roll it back to show the waist 
underneath. 

Pleat the sleeves as at Fig. 10, join the side 
seams and sew them into the armholes. Hem the 
lower edge of the blouse and run in an elastic braid 
for a draw string. 

To make the jacket, cut the body as at Figs. 8-9, 
of serge and black lining. The collar from Fig. 7, 
and the sleeves from Fig. n. Join the front and 
back of waist, set a pocket into the left front in the 
slit indicated, and set on the collar from middle of 
back to within one and one-half inches of front 
near line "A." Face the collar in connection with 
the wrong side of the fronts four inches deep with 
the material, and roll them along the dotted line, 
join the upper and under part of the sleeves, face 
the bottoms and trim along the seam with buttons 
sew them into the armhole according to directions 
for basting in front of book. Trim the front with 
two rows of gilt buttons, that are held together by 
two button-holes, one in each front in which are 
two buttons linked together with a cord. 

With this suit is worn a Windsor tie, passed un- 
der the collar and tied in a sailor knot in front. 

This suit with the exception of the trousers can 
be used as well for a girl. 

The little jacket, Figs. 8-9 with a kilt or 
gathered skirt sewed on, making a beautiful cloak. 
With this for a cloak any kind of sleeve or collar 
may be used. 




<> 



-ta 



<> 







V 




t 



■ 






m!E RY ° F INGRESS 




013 973 120 1 T 



ffiM^^^+X^X '^'vOOCO^XO -^'O 







6S»3»QS|g!Sgiag|ll^i 



M!5BMSMEslSKSS32sS3sS35i 







The above is a cut of our TAILOR'S SQUARE made on White Maple with beveled front 
edges, corners well protected by brass plates and end of curve tipped with brass. 

Thii S^uiatejf arranged to do all the mathematical problems necessary to produce any 
pattern, as the vanous scales make every division of the measures required for each separate 
piece of the garmelnt. 



-H T \ ^«_ =s ,ne Square^ou have a system of cutting that is capable of any change for 

the various styles of drafting. Vou have a Square that can be used at once upon the dress 

I 
lining, thus preventing the errors that occur from transferring, besides saving the time. You 

have a rule to use in cutting all trimmings, dress skirts, etc., that you will find almost indispens- 
able in any well ordered Dress Making Parlor. 

The Instruction Book is just out, with every late style of cutting, basting and making, be- 
sides the purchaser of this Square will be furnished free from time to time with every im- 
portant change in style. 

The Measure Book is entirely new and on a different plan from anything in the market. 
It will save a dress-maker in one year, enough time to pay for itself a hundred times. 

For particulars, prices, etc., address, 



flme. Ellsworth Palmer, 



For Systems, Books and all Supplies, 

ADDRESS AT 
BffRHBOO, WIS. 



CHICAGO, ILL. 



V 

'V 

V 

w 



I 
I 



;£•■ 



V; 






;.V 






•1: 

-- 



1 



V 1 






